In-House Rubber Manufacturing
For most climbers the stickiness of the rubber that contacts the rock is the most important aspect of a climbing shoe. And we
do not disagree. But we also feel that the stickiness and rebounding features of the other rubber parts of a climbing shoe
are also very important. So important in fact that we decided to-about 5 years ago, build our own rubber parts manufacturing
process inside our factory.
Which means we make our own outsoles, rands, vamp and heel parts, each with its own function, shape and aesthetic requirements.
We import raw rubber. We mix it. Then we mold it. This way we can control each step of the process.
This is how we can offer a myriad of outsole hardnesses, a cornucopia of molded textures and kaleidoscope of rubber colors.
And this is how we can make the stickiest- and most durable, rubber possible.
Two Last Shapes to Fit Most
In an ideal world each climber would get their own, individual shape to build their own rock shoes. But our offering of two shapes
of shoes satisfies about 90% of the population.
Our regular volume shapes will fit a majority of you- somewhere up to 75% of you. The other 15% or so of you will find that our low
volume fits better.
If you have ever felt that the lace-holes of your shoes tighten too closely to each other, your Velcro rock shoes have extra-long tails
after synching or your heel-fit is too loose then our low volume models are for you. The lower volume shapes will fit most women and
narrower width men very well.
3-D Molded Midsole
Durability is a major design requirement for our shoes. And building our shoes out of high-quality parts, you will get a higher
quality product. Our midsoles are super durable because we injection mold them in high-heat, steel molds.
To start, a midsole is the chassis of a climbing shoe. The longer this chassis maintains its shape the longer the shoes continue to
support your weight. In classic shoe making, midsoles from materials like leather, fiberboard or even low-heat activated plastic are
used. And these materials will in time degrade. Heat and sweat from your feet with use will soften them and render them useless.
We know this because we have used midsoles such as these in the past.
Until we found ABS plastic that is injection molded, which does not change shape for a much longer time period. Their shape and
hardness continue for years as opposed to months for the other materials.
Then we used the shape of our lasts, added material where we need it-like along the spine of the midsole for longitudinal rigidity,
and took away materials from where we didn’t need it-like along the inside edge, toe and outside edge of the shoes. We basically
engineered the shape with the material to get a part that endures the entire lifetime of the shoes.
Because we know how important durability is to quality.
Dura Tension Midsole System
In rock shoe design, over the last four decades there exists about 5 challenges that we have been trying to overcome. Some of
these are probably already obvious to you- like sticky rubber that doesn’t wear-out and a comfortable fitting shoe that still offers
high performance climbing.
But the one “holy grail” feature that we have been projecting on for the last couple of years is maybe the most illusive crux to
solve- how to maintain the performance tension of high-end rock shoes.
Currently high-end rock shoes get their tension from rubber that is stretched. This rubber under tension gives the shoes a lively
rebound effect when standing on small holds. When done correctly this feeling of tensioned connectiveness is amazing for the
climber in terms of feedback, control…performance. But sadly this feeling doesn’t last very long.
In fact many of the top climbers will have in their quiver shoes in varying states of wear, rotating from the fresh to the “sweetest”
version depending on the climb. Warm up or working routes- use the new shoes or the old shoes because the best is not yet needed.
But when going for a redpoint attempt- bring out the pair that is perfectly worn in offering the “Sweet-Spot” of sensitivity and control.
And pray to god that this pair will stay “sweet” long enough for the send.
What we have been working on is a shoe design that offers the longest “Sweet-Spot” of performance ever! And this year with our
Acro and Sierra models we bring you Butora’s very own Dura Tension midsole system.
Combining carbon fiber and 3D injection molded ABS, the Dura Tension midsole system gives the shoes the lively feedback and
performance needed to stand, press on small footholds….for the life of the shoe!